This trip is designed to combine the best elements of Brazil's North and South Pantanal and take in locations that offer a diversity of experiences, habitats, fauna and flora while focusing on jaguar photography with expert Nick Garbutt.
After rains in the surrounding uplands, 80% of the Pantanal becomes submerged (December-March), but as these waters drain away and the area dries out, migratory birds return and wildlife becomes more concentrated. These concentrations reach their peak in the dry season (July-October). The species the area supports is breathtaking: more than 750 species of birds, around 300 mammals and over 480 varieties of reptile. But it isn’t simply the numbers that make the Pantanal so special. Seeing iconic and rare animals frequently is a very real possibility.
Of course, jaguars top the list: there is no finer place in the world to see South America’s apex predator, and the chances of success are very realistic. Add to this, the likelihood of encounters with giant river otter, Brazilian tapir, giant anteater, southern tamandua, hyacinth macaw, both howler and capuchin monkeys, jabirú storks, toco toucans, yellow anaconda and countless capybara and yacaré caiman, and it is easy to appreciate why the Pantanal is regarded as such a special place.
As we reach down the tributaries and main channels of the Pantanal’s immense river systems, we will be at eye level with giant river otter who noisily chatter as they hunt and play. These expressive creatures make for brilliant photographic subjects as we capture their character and behaviour. On these boat excursions and by vehicle we photograph the majestic jaguar who can be seen in all behaviours, from reclining on the banks to hunting caiman and capybara.
In the grasslands we search for the bizarrely built giant anteater and southern tamandua. Bulky tapir and contrastingly slender ocelot feature in the tour focus and there will be ample opportunity to capture excellent photographs and develop new skills as we photograph the wonders of the Pantanal with personalised tuition from Nick Garbutt.
Typical Itinerary
Day1: Fly to Sao Pãulo
Depart the UK on an overnight flight to São Paulo.
Day2: Arrive Sao Pãulo & continue to the Pantanal
After an onward domestic flight to Cuiaba, gateway to the Pantanal, we are met and transferred to Poconé on the edge of the Pantanal, to Cáceres, then across ranch land and through forest to the banks of the Paraguay River, close to Taiama Ecological Reserve. After lunch we take our first boat trip to search for jaguars and other wildlife and, hopefully, our first rewarding photographic opportunities.
Days3-5: Boat trips on the Paraguay River in search of jaguars and other Pantanal wildlife
For the next three days, we enjoy boat excursions on the Paraguay River in the morning and afternoon. These will allow us to explore the reserve and its various habitats, which are some of the best (and most secluded) areas to observe and photograph jaguar as well as other Pantanal wildlife. Although the experience is like other areas of the Northern Pantanal, the density of jaguars is higher along the banks of the Paraguay River, and visitor numbers appear to be lower.
Day6: Transfer to the Northern Pantanal
This morning we return to Poconé and drive down the famous Transpantaneira to our accommodation, arriving in time for lunch. There will be time in the afternoon for some short walks to begin exploring the area with opportunities to photograph some of the more common species. Some of the species that we hope to observe include caiman, capybara, toco toucans and potentially a variety of macaws.
Days7-8: Explore the Araras Reserve & the surrounding area
The private reserve of the Pousada Araras Eco Lodge is a mosaic of grassland, marsh, open water and forest providing habitats for an impressive array of species and all within easy reach of the lodge. For the next two days we explore the area by safari truck or on foot – raised boardwalks lead through the wetlands into nearby deciduous forest, where canopy towers offer bird’s-eye views of the surrounding area. Around the lodge are the nests of hyacinth macaws, with numerous others birds easily seen like bare-faced curassow, chestnut-eared araçaris and toco toucan.
In adjacent pools large numbers of yacare caiman and capybara are resident together with rufescent tiger herons, wattled jacanas and many other species.
Day and night drives in an open safari truck allow us to explore areas further afield: night drives can be good for spotting crab-eating foxes, crab-eating raccoons, Brazilian tapir and perhaps even ocelot.
Day9: Transfer to Porto Jofre & boat to the Jaguar Retreat
After a final morning at Araras, we drive south down the Transpantaneira to Porto Jofre on the Cuiaba River. There is plenty of birdlife to see along the way, with large aggregations of water birds often seen in pools close to the road. At Porto Jofre we transfer by boat up the Cuiaba River to our lodge located in the heart of prime jaguar viewing areas.
Days10-13: Boat trips on the Cuiaba River & smaller tributaries
Over the next four days we take morning and afternoon boat trips on the Cuiabá, Piquirí and Three Brothers Rivers and their tributaries, looking for jaguars and other wildlife. There is a very healthy population of jaguars in the vicinity, that specialise in hunting capybara and caiman that constitute 90% of their diet. Numerous different individuals are regularly seen along the banks of the watercourses and in the immediately adjacent forest.
The area teems with other wildlife too. This is one of the best places in South America to see giant river otters, with a number of family groups often being very tolerant. There is also a good chance of seeing Brazilian tapir, black howler monkey and perhaps yellow anaconda.
Day14: Return to Porto Jofre & fly to Southern Pantanal
We transfer back to Porto Jofre by boat and then take a light aircraft charter flight to Caiman Lodge, flying over the extensive Southern Pantanal. We should arrive by mid afternoon which will give us time to begin exploring the area before dark.
This is a wonderful location and has been at the forefront of innovative conservation initiatives for over 20 years. Again the habitat is a mixture of grasslands, forest patches and lagoons. In the afternoon we have a chance to explore the surrounds - our first chance to observe and photograph species in the Southern Pantanal.
Accommodation: Caiman Lodge, 4-nights
Days15-17: Explore area around Caiman Lodge
We have three full days to explore this large area and will spend time with the researchers from Projecto Onçafari, tracking jaguars both during the day and after dark. There is an excellent chance of close encounters both day and night and some interesting and exciting photographic opportunities.
There will also be ample time to enjoy all the other wildlife that flourishes in the area: this is another location where giant anteaters are regularly encountered in the grasslands and paddocks. Night drives can be particularly productive with Brazilian tapirs and ocelots often seen.
Day18: Transfer to Campo Grande & fly to Sao Paulo
There will be time for one final outing before we depart and transfer to the airport at Campo Grande to catch our domestic flight over to São Paulo. On arrival in São Paulo and then onto the UK.
Day19: Depart Sao Paulo
We return to the airport in time to check in for our return international flights back to the UK.
Day21: Arrive UK
Key info
Duration and price including flights from/to UK: 19 daysfrom £12,195 pp
Duration and price excluding international flights: 17 daysfrom £11,425 pp
Single supplement:
On request – please contact us.
Trip type:
Group Tour
Group size: 10
When to go: Sep-Oct: Dry season in the Pantanal
Group Departures: Please contact us for departure date details.
An award-winning photographer and author, with a background in zoology, Nick has forged a career by combining these skills with leading tours and lecturing.
Nick has written and photographed several critically acclaimed books, including: ‘100 Animals to See Before They Die’, ‘Mammals of Madagascar: A Complete Guide’, ‘Wild Borneo’, and ‘Chameleons’. He is a regular contributor to international magazines such as National Geographic, BBC Wildlife, Africa Geographic and Geographical.
Nick has twice been a winner in the BBC Wildlife Photographer of the Year Competition. In 2000, he won the prestigious Gerald Durrell Award for Endangered Wildlife. His photographs appear widely in books, calendars and other publications worldwide. He is a Special Lecturer on the MSc course in the Wildlife Photography and Imaging at Nottingham University, where he studied.
Accessed via the town of Cuiaba, the northern Pantanal is home to some of Brazil’s rarest wildlife, such as jaguar and giant river otter. Many of the lodges here are still functioning cattle ranches, offering day and night trips by boat, vehicle, on foot and on horseback, accompanied by local naturalist guides.
Find Out More about {acc:title}
Where: Mato Grosso
Ideal for viewing: capybara, giant anteater, giant river otter, jaguar, yacare caiman
Excellent for: Wildlife cruises, Wildlife photography, River safaris, Jaguar watching
Conservation projects in the southern Pantanal focus on jaguar and the hyacinth macaw. From a comfortable lodge you can see wildlife by boat, vehicle and on foot. Bonito, on the southern fringe, is a mecca for ecotourism, where you will find grottos with blue lakes and walking trails surrounded by monkeys.
Find Out More about {acc:title}
Excellent for: Wildlife photography, River safaris, Jaguar watching, Birdwatching
This ecological paradise is the world’s largest wetland, with 124 mammals (including the world’s largest jaguars), 177 reptiles, 1,100 species of butterfly, and a myriad of birds, brightly coloured flowers, and shoals of fish. There are significant differences between the north and south; we recommend visiting both.
Find Out More about {acc:title}
Where: Mato Grosso & Mato Grosso do Sul states
Ideal for viewing: capybara, giant anteater, giant river otter, jaguar, yacare caiman
Excellent for: Wildlife photography, Self-drive, River safaris, Jaguar watching, Birdwatching
Featured accommodation:
Set on a 53,000 hectare ranch in the Southern Pantanal wetland, Caiman Lodge is one of three operations of Caiman – the other two being an important nature conservation programme and Caiman Ranch. Caiman Lodge comprises two independent lodges situated 22 kilometres from each other.
Find Out More about Caiman Lodge
Situated on the Paraguay River near the Taiama Ecological Reserve, the Hotel Baiazinha provides a comfortable base from which to explore the Northern Pantanal and discover its wildlife. With just six en suite rooms, it has an intimate atmosphere to accompany its scenic situation.
Find Out More about Hotel Baiazinha
The Jaguar Retreat occupies an enviable position on the banks of Three Brothers River in an area famed for private jaguar views. With just nine rooms, facilities include en-suite, air-conditioning, internet and two restaurants. This intimate lodge provides an ideal opportunity to get away from the crowds.
Find Out More about Jaguar Retreat
Pousada Araras Eco Lodge is a rustic yet sophisticated lodge, surrounded by more than 3,000 hectares of private land. You can see various birds, including the highly attractive, endangered hyacinth macaw, from the lodge’s forest boardwalk, and tapir, marmoset and howler monkey are seen regularly in the area.
Find Out More about Pousada Araras Eco Lodge