Estelle Somers - Amazon, Incas and Andes
The mere mention of Peru immediately conjures up pictures of the famous ancient remains of Machu Picchu. The Amazon Basin and the Andes are certainly not the first things that spring to mind, but on my recent trip to Peru I learnt that it was the incredible diversity of ancient history, mountains and rainforest that lead to a truly fascinating experience.
The southern section of the Amazon Basin was our first stop. Flying into Puerto Maldonado our aim was to visit the most remote of all the places to stay on the Tambopata River - one of the many tributaries of the mighty Amazon. It takes a minimum of seven hours in motorised canoe to navigate the 150 kilometres of river which leads you to the Tambopata Research Centre (TRC). Located within an uninhabited portion of the Tambopata National Reserve and adjacent to the Bahuaja National Park, the centre is the obvious choice for an in depth exploration of Amazonian nature and wildlife.
After transferring from the small airport to the lodge headquarters, where we left any excess luggage, we made our way down a rough track to the jetty. Already the warm air was a welcome relief after the cold winter in the UK and the sounds of the jungle began to make me feel far from home. As we waited at the jetty, 20 or so different species of butterfly gently fluttered by, keeping the photographers happy. The area of Tambopata has an abundance of butterfly species - over 1200 different species and reputedly the most in the world.
As we motored up river we were given our first 'Banana Leaf Meal' - neatly packaged, delicious and totally eco friendly with no rubbish to contaminate the river - an ideal packed lunch! We tucked into the tasty rice, egg and vegetables packaged inside the banana leaf and then sat back with the wind in our hair and enjoyed our first views beneath a stormy looking Amazonian sky. We were visiting at the end of the rainy season and the river was running very fast. The rich red colour of the water against the bright green vegetation on the banks, combined with the stormy skies created a kaleidoscope of colours and a beautiful scene. It was not long before we spotted our first mammal, the Capybara - a metre long relative of the guinea pig - gently sunning himself on the riverbank. Seemingly oblivious to our presence we were able to quietly pull up along side and marvel at this huge creature.
Due to the long distances to the TRC, it is normally necessary to spend the first night at a lodge, part the way up river. After a couple of hours on the boat and as dusk approached we drew near to Refugio Amazonas which was our chosen home for the night. Some of the more prepared amongst us had packed torches in our hand luggage to make any unexpected night walking a little easier - the remainder had to share torches and rely on what little night vision us UK dwellers have. It was approaching full moon and so the moonlight helped us whilst precariously exiting the boat but it soon had difficulty breaking through the dense canopy once we left the riverbank and headed further into the rainforest. The air was still and as we made our way through the undergrowth, the noises of frogs and insects surrounded us. After about 15 minutes, and just as our eyes were acclimatising, we saw tiny flickers of light in the distance. Lit by lots of little kerosene lamps, Refugio Amazonas was a welcoming sight and looked very picturesque. The lodge is a traditional construction made entirely of native materials (wood, palm fonds, cane and clay). All 24 rooms are discreetly tucked away in the forest within three separate wings, safely connected by boardwalks. The common areas feel like a cosy sanctuary with comfy hammocks, beautiful canopy views, a dining area and a small bar. As with all the lodges we stayed in at Tambopata, there is no electricity and so all lighting is by battery power, kerosene lantern or candle. For me this just increased the natural ambience and magical feel of the place.
After a traditional welcome drink of Pisco Sour (grape brandy, sugar, lemon juice and egg white) we were shown to our rooms to freshen up before dinner. The rooms were exceptionally clean and beautifully made. The front of the rooms are open to the rainforest and act as the best picture window you could wish for - at first I was a little wary of any mosquito friends who may have wished to join me, however this was not a problem in any of the lodges that I stayed at - they were all situated in clearings, set well back from the river and away from swamp areas so mosquitoes did not seem to be a problem that they encounter. After a refreshing shower, we enjoyed a most impressive buffet dinner - my vegetarian needs were catered for as well as they would be any Western restaurants and everyone agreed that the whole meal was excellent.
Now feeling more refreshed and revitalized some of us decided to embark on a night-time caiman search. We trekked down the muddy track to the river (rubber boots provided by the lodge) and quietly boarded the boat. Sat in the darkness in silence the sounds of the jungle seemed louder than ever. The boat slowly edged along the riverbanks and after a few minutes our guide cut the engine and started sweeping the beam of his spotlight across the water. We saw a red glint of light flash back at us and we began to drift closer. As we neared, the outline of the head of a Spectacled Caiman came into focus. We sat and watched - once again our presence seemed to go unnoticed. As we sat and our eyes acclimatised, we began to see more and more watchful eyes glinting back at us!
After a restful nights sleep, and having enjoyed the early morning views from the canopy tower, we set off for the final five hour boat ride up river to the TRC. The scenery was spectacular and the river was constantly changing shape and direction. With a couple of stops along the way and another tasty banana leaf meal, before we knew it we had covered the 150 kilometres up river to our next destination. The lodge at Tambopata Research Centre was of similar design to Refugio Amazonas, and once again, was set back from the river, in a small clearing and made entirely of native materials. A little more intimate, with just 18 open fronted rooms, it felt even more personal.
The Tambopata Research Centre was set up 15 years ago to accommodate researchers protecting the nearby macaw clay lick - this is now known to be the largest macaw clay lick in the world. The centre is set within the 275,000 hectare Tambopata National Reserve and is adjacent to the huge 1 million hectare Bahuaja Sonene National Park. Both areas protect some of the last untouched lowland and tropical humid forests in the Amazon Basin. They contain approximately 1300 bird species, 32 parrot species, 200 mammal species, 1200 butterfly species and 10,000 species of vascular plants.
Macaw populations from Mexico right through to Argentina are now endangered. This is primarily due to habitat loss, hunting and the pet trade. The researchers at Tambopata have carried out extensive studies monitoring the behavioural patterns of the macaws and reintroduction methods. On most clear mornings dozens of highly coloured macaws and literally hundreds of smaller parrots congregate on the large riverbank which has formed this natural clay lick. It is a raucous and colourful spectacle - no wonder it inspired a National Geographic cover story.
Our visit to the clay lick started at 4.30am when we were woken for a pre-dawn departure. Bleary eyed, but full of anticipation we made our way through the rainforest towards the riverbank and clay lick. Our early departure took a number of jungle inhabitants by surprise and the walk gave rise to a couple of unexpected sightings including a Long-nosed Nine-banded Armadillo. The sounds of Howler Monkeys began to fill the air as first light approached. We boarded a small boat which took us the short distance across the river. A short walk up a tall bank and into thick undergrowth gave us a perfect view of the clay lick back on the opposite riverbank. It was imperative that our presence did not disturb the macaws and parrots so everyone was seated on low stools and asked to remain perfectly quiet. Now all we had to do was wait.
As the sun rose we could see that it was going to be a beautiful, clear morning and the blue sky gradually lit up. A few calls of waking birds were heard, but it appeared that macaws and parrots did not believe in quite such an early start! A particularly long 15 minutes passed and I began to wonder if there was something putting them off - maybe a bird of prey? Then, in the distance I heard the piercing squawk of a lone macaw, shortly followed by a pair of Blue-and-Yellow Macaws flying overhead. Slowly more macaws could be seen, flying in from long distances away and circling overhead. More parrots started emerging from the trees around us and began to join the pandemonium. As more and more birds started circling the noise became louder and louder. It became obvious that they were circling to ensure that it was safe before landing. Suddenly, a large group of bright green parrots screeched passed and swooped down onto the lick. They were all excitedly chattering to each other and this was the sign to the macaws that they could now land safely. Gradually five different species of macaw began to congregate and land - Scarlet Macaw, Blue-and-Yellow Macaw, Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Red-and-Green Macaw, and Red-bellied Macaw were all sighted. The vast numbers of parrots were just as impressive with large numbers of Mealy Parrot and good sightings of Yellow-crowned Parrot, Blue-headed Parrot and Orange-cheeked Parrot. The spectacle lasted for well over an hour with plenty of opportunity for everyone to take in the show. The birds were totally at ease with our presence, landing in trees all around us and continuing their daily business as though we were not there. Then just as quickly as they had arrived, they started to disappear, the clay lick became still again, the raucous squawking began to calm and we were left with just a few images of pairs of macaws flying off into the distance. The whole experience was quite surreal - if you had turned up just an hour later you wouldn't have believed what had just happened!
The sun was now hot and we were ready to head back for breakfast, although it actually felt as though it should have been lunchtime due to the early start. Even after such a spectacular beginning to the day, the remainder did not disappoint. We explored the various walking trails both during daylight and later that evening and were rewarded with some wonderful sightings. The list was numerous, but my favourites were the shy Southern Tamandua (a particularly cute, tree climbing anteater) and a herd of approximately 150 White-lipped Peccary (wild pigs) noisily stampeding through the undergrowth.
All too quickly, it was time to head back to civilisation and we made our way back down river to Posada Amazonas - our stopover for the night. The five hour trip took us back past Refugio Amazonas and closer to the jetty from where we would head back to Puerto Maldonado. Although it was just meant as a stopover for us, Posada Amazonas was also very interesting - it is owned by the local community and we were given the opportunity to visit their ethnobotanical gardens and learn about the medicinal plants they use - this was particularly interesting. There is also a large oxbow lake where Giant River Otters can be spotted, as well as its own small parrot clay lick and a canopy tower.
Having made the final boat journey out of the Amazon Basin the next day, we continued our trip with visits to the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu and the stunning Lake Titicaca high up in the Andes. The first thing we noticed was the altitude and obvious drop in temperature. Although some people did feel the ill effects of the high altitude, the famous Coca Tea seemed to soothe and we continued a little breathlessly, but without too much of a struggle.
I was lucky enough to travel on the luxurious Orient Express Hiram Bingham train to Machu Picchu. The highlight for me was the glass viewing carriage. This carriage had an open-air section, which gave the most magnificent views as we travelled through the valleys adjacent to raging rivers. After arriving at Aguas Calientes we took the short but rather precarious bus trip up a series of switchbacks on the side of the mountain that Machu Picchu is perched upon. We were blessed with another beautifully clear day and the view as we walked through the gates to Machu Picchu was just as special as I had imagined. The peak of Huayna Picchu towered behind the ruins, both of which were beautifully bathed in sunshine. The shear scale of the construction was overwhelming - the photos I had seen in books and magazines had always been of the same section of the ruins - it was not until I was actually there that I realised that there was so much more of this settlement to explore. There are a total of 140 constructions including temples, parks and residencies, plus more than one hundred flights of stone steps. Built around the year 1450 and perched on a mountain ridge approximately 2400 metres above sea level, Machu Picchu is an amazing feat of workmanship. Despite having limited time we managed to walk half way up to the Sun Gate which was the main entrance gate for the Incas. From here we were able to sit back and look down on Machu Picchu and soak up the atmosphere and take in the setting and true scale of the city.
Finally on our itinerary was Lake Titicaca - we travelled to Puno and spent a nice night there before boarding the boat to Suasi Island, situated in the north-east of this gigantic lake. At a height of 3810 metres above sea level, Lake Titicaca is considered the highest navigable lake in the world. Its deepest point measures 280 metres and it spans 196 kilometres long by 56 kilometres wide. This truly huge body of water is surrounded by the majestic summits of the Bolivian Cordillera Real to the east, and the Peruvian Western Cordillera to the west. It contains 36 islands, most of which are inhabited by traditional communities.
On our journey to Suasi Island we also visited the Uros Islands which are made entirely from mats of reed. These large floating islands were originally made by local communities to escape from the aggressive Collas and Incas, but even today several hundred people still live on these man made islands. We then moved on to Taquile Island, home to approximately 2000 people who have inhabited the island for thousands of years and continue to base their teachings on the moral code of the Incas - Ama Sua (Do not Steal), Ama Quella (Do not Lie) and Ama Llulla (Do not be Lazy). Not abiding by any one of these laws could mean being penalised with deportation.
We travelled on by boat for a further one and a half hours to the other side of the lake where Suasi Island is situated. This side of the lake is far away from the hustle and bustle of Puno and provided us with a tranquil retreat for a couple of nights. When we arrived, we were struck by the blooming flowers that were clinging to the hillsides. The only building on this 52 hectare island is the small Casa Andina Private Collection Hotel. Built in the late 1990s it is made entirely from local resources and runs purely on solar power. The stone and thatch construction blends harmoniously with its surroundings and feels very cosy with exposed beams and warming wood burners, which are lit as the chill of the evening draws in. We were welcomed to the island with a traditional Pisco Sour and a hearty barbecue lunch. Later in the afternoon, after settling into our rooms, we followed one of the trails around the island and spotted the three types of Camelid that inhabit the area; Alpaca, Llama and Vicuna. The trail led us to the highest point on the island where we watched the sunset before retiring to the warmth of the cosy fires and the luxury of the lodge.
The next day we were back out on the water again, but under our own steam this time. We were given the opportunity to use canoes which gave a very peaceful feel and allowed us to get closer to the wildlife and birds that inhabit the area. Sausi Island has a very large population of cormorants and many other water birds as well as the world's largest frog. The Titicaca Frog can grow to a staggering 50cm long (yes, half a metre!). It lives in waters of up to 20 metres deep, and unlike most other frogs, it never leaves the water. I did not see one of these huge aquatic creatures but was instead content with watching the mischievous Viscachas (a small rodent which looks like a cross between a rabbit and a chinchilla) playing on the rocks. After a blissful day on the water we decided to make use of the hotels steam room and massage facilities before having dinner and an evening of stargazing around the bonfire. A perfect ending to a very rewarding and contrasting trip!
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For details of how to arrange a trip similar to Estelle's please contact her on estelle.somers@wildlifeworldwide.com