Extension - The Rainforest and Blue Seas of the Masoala Peninsula with Nick Garbutt and Hery Andrianiantefana

By Kathy Gilmartin

We had assembled in the bar of the Relais du Masoala for our night walk when Nick Garbutt arrived with the news that we could go in search of an Aye-aye. We'd need to walk for about 15 minutes or so but our chance of seeing this one was good. Fifty minutes later doubts were creeping in but we decided to stick with it (who needed to have dinner anyway!) and finally stumbled through the undergrowth to a tree with an Aye-aye in it. Seeing it at first wasn't easy with people frantically swapping binoculars and advice on where it was but soon we had all spotted it and could relax. It moved about above us, relatively unconcerned but aware we were there, occasionally scratching itself with its bony fingers or yawning. Reluctantly we left (nursing very stiff necks) sometime later, very aware of how fortunate we had been.

The next day we set off in two small motor boats to cross the Baie of Antongil, arriving on the Masoala peninsula by mid morning. It wasn't hard to spend time relaxing on what must be one of the most beautiful beaches in Madagascar if not the world. Our hotel, the Chez Arol was delightful and the food excellent. We enjoyed freshly baked bread and lots of locally caught fish all cooked on the wood burning stove.

Our night walks revealed a wide variety of endemic species including a colourful millipede and numerous frogs, geckos and chameleons and on a morning walk we were treated to both Red Ruffed Lemurs and Helmet and Rufous Vangas. We woke on our second full day on the peninsula to rain and after a fascinating and strangely beautiful walk we decided to spend the rest of the day relaxing around the hotel. It is hard to describe just how wet it was and the effect of the humidity but we were able to learn more about our cameras (courtesy of Nick) and write up our notes.

The next day we went back across the Baie to the island of Nosy Mangabe and were relieved as the weather gradually improved allowing us to see the Black and White Lemurs without difficulty or the need for waterproofs. The sunshine also meant that we could dry some of our clothing on the makeshift line that Alison rigged up.

Our final night was spent in the Relais du Masoala where we enjoyed another excellent dinner, some more Three Horse Beers and the usual good company. Brian Jackson (from Tafika in Zambia) and his girlfriend just happened to be staying there too.

We reluctantly returned to the delightful little airport where we picked up the plane to Tana and started our journey home from what had been a wonderful introduction to Madagascar and all its delights.

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