Kenya Rediscovered
by Sarah Williams, Wildlife Consultant, July 2008
Having just recently returned from Kenya I'm delighted to report that the country continues to be a great destination for wildlife enthusiasts and I highly recommend that if you are considering travelling to Kenya then this is definitely the year to visit. With visitor numbers considerably lower than in previous years, it's a perfect time to travel.
As this was my first trip in 12 years it was great to be able to travel to areas I was not familiar with and experience some new properties which have recently opened.
A few days were first spent in the Mara where thousands of Wilderbeast were grazing; this was unusual for this time of the year as the migration from the south was yet to happen ...obviously no one had informed the Wilderbeast!
I then travelled north leaving behind the grasslands of the Mara and flew over the green and cultivated, patchwork quilt of farmland until I reached the dryer but stunning landscapes of Lakipia and the Northern Frontier region. My destination was the delightful Loisaba Lodge which is perched on top of an escarpment with the most breathtaking 180 degree view. On a clear day you can see the Mathews Range and even Mt Kenya!
This lodge is ideal for those with a sense of adventure with camel treks, mountain biking, horse riding, quad bikes and walking safaris with your Samburu guide, all on offer. And for those who wish to sleep out under an amazing African night sky ...try the star beds. These large comfortable beds are on a platform high above the bush where you can drift off to sleep with a million stars as your canopy and a moon that seem close enough to touch.
Flying still further north the landscape became even drier but incredibly beautiful with massive rocky outcrops and the odd splash of bright red - the desert rose defying its pale surroundings. We landed in Samburu in what seemed like the middle of nowhere and shortly after William, our guide, arrived in a cloud of dust! William was one of the best guides I have ever had the pleasure of spending time with. A Masaai, he was completely self-taught with a massive amount of knowledge and enthusiasm.
I really enjoyed my time in Samburu, the scenery and wildlife was excellent. We saw Cheetah, the handsome Oryx and the long necked Gerenuk, which in Swahili is called the antelope giraffe...a perfect description. It is also possible to see species which are particular to this area, the beautiful Reticulated Giraffe and Grevy's Zebra as well as some unusual birds like the Pygmy Falcon.
I stayed in the stunning new Saruni Samburu, the opening of which is imminent. This gorgeous property has been built on top of a rocky outcrop with a stunning 180 degree view down into the valley and the mountains beyond. The rooms are simply huge and dressed with furniture and rugs from Morocco and a real eye for detail. When I woke the following morning the view from my enormous bed was wonderful, the full moon just disappearing behind the mountain opposite.
Leaving Samburu I drove through varied and interesting landscape to reach Shaba and eventually Joy's Camp. This is a lovely intimate camp which has been built where Joy Adamson would set up her easel under the shade of Acacia trees. A small museum in the reception area exhibits some fascinating personal items from Joy's life. There is a very relaxed ambience in this camp and perfect for those who really need to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.
During the delicious lunch, the food was outstanding and a herd of elephants gently wandered down to the marsh in front of the camp and entertained us for some time. It was a good moment to reflect on how interesting this trip had been and how much I had fallen in love with the nor
thern areas of Kenya which so many visitors miss out... don't be one of those people, go now - it's a great time to visit!
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