The Minch, a strait of water lying between mainland Scotland and the spectacular archipelago of the Outer Hebrides is increasingly gaining a reputation as one of the finest places in the United Kingdom for whale and dolphin watching, with a tantalising variety of species recorded on an annual basis.
On this six-day private charter we go dolphin and whale watching in the Outer Hebrides, in search of a wealth of marine mammals. Minke, humpback, fin whale, orca and a variety of species of dolphins are all possible, alongside an abundance of birdlife. In the company of a vastly experienced expert team, we traverse these marine rich waters targeting those areas that have consistently yielded sightings over the years.
Travelling at the end of summer when, after months of sunlight and warming, plankton levels are at their highest, cetacean activity levels should be at their peak and the greatest diversity of species present. The increased levels of plankton life not only support great shoals of fish and therefore seabirds, but also visitors from afar, including the UK’s largest fish, the basking shark.
From the comfort of our specially designed vessel, the Hjalmar Bjorge, we scan the waters of the Minch for signs of marine mammal activity. The presence of feeding seabirds including gannets and shearwaters is often a tell-tale sign of cetaceans and aids us in our quest.
Whilst on our cetacean adventure we also venture ashore and explore the islands of the archipelago, with further highlights likely to include puffins, white-tailed eagles, and otters.
Typical Itinerary
Day1: Meet at Inverness, transfer to boat & afternoon cruise
We meet Alexa at Inverness and transfer to Ullapool for our ferry crossing to Stornoway.
Crossing the North Minch onboard CalMac’s MV Loch Seaforth we have our first chance of spotting some of the area's wildlife with a variety of seabirds likely and with luck even our first cetacean sightings. On arrival in Stornoway we walk the short distance to the harbour where we board the Hjalmar Bjorge, receiving an introductory briefing before settling in to our new surrounds.
Before setting sail, we venture by minibus to Tiumpan Head Lighthouse, a spectacular setting that provides the perfect vantage point for a spot of shore-watching. Here we get an understanding of the lie of the land and receive a briefing on what to look for when scanning for cetaceans before returning to the vessel for a short evening cruise, overnighting at anchor in a sheltered sea loch south of Stornoway. Our journey south offers the chance of an eagle or cetacean encounter and as the light begins to fade and dusk descends, we enjoy a delicious dinner listening to the hauntingly beautiful calls of waders and divers alike as they settle in to roost for the night.
Accommodation: Hjalmar Bjorge, 5-nights
Day2: Visit the Shiant Isles
This morning’s cruise takes us further south to one of the most significant and iconic seabird colonies in British waters, the Shiant Isles. Although the main breeding season will be over, there will still be great rafts of seabirds and the chance to look out for some of the rarer migrating species such as sooty shearwater, Leach’s petrel and a range of skuas. This small archipelago hosts thousands of puffins (holding 10% of UK breeding birds), guillemots and razorbills each summer, as well as providing feeding grounds for gannets, fulmars, shags and kittiwakes. Both golden and white-tailed eagles hold territory in the area and we will be sure to keep an eye out for these giants of the skies.
Should the sea state allow, we will make a safe landing ashore from our tender on one of the islands giving us a chance to walk around these unique and historic islands. If sea conditions allow, we will then anchor overnight in the bay at the Shiants or if not, at a sheltered sea loch on Lewis.
Heading north today we concentrate our search for cetacean species in the Tiumpan Head/Broad Bay area to the north of Stornoway. High on our list is the local population of Risso’s dolphins. These large, up to three metres, distinctive dolphins, are normally found in deep water where they feed on squid amongst other prey items. Around Stornoway however they are relatively common and the focus of a Whale & Dolphin Conservation (WDC) research program that we will be contributing to. They are also the primary reason for the ratification of the North-east Lewis Marine Protected Area that we will be sailing through.
Other species found this far north include the large white-beaked dolphin. Resembling a small orca, this species often come up alongside the boat and bow ride along with us. Our anchorage tonight is in a sheltered bay along the Lewis coast.
The next day we begin our voyage east towards the mainland today crossing the Minch. These open waters offer an excellent chance of whale encounters and as we travel east we are constantly on the look out for seabird feeding frenzies which more often than not, indicate the presence of a food source, hopefully with whales in attendance. This is where we may find minke whales, the most common whale species in the Minch, and if we are lucky we may witness them lunge feeding as they scoop up their dinner!
The west coast mainland boasts a wealth of wildlife, including golden and white-tailed sea eagles, red deer, and much more and our experienced guides will have sharp eyes on the lookout to see what can be found. There will be a chance to stretch our legs ashore and if we are patient we may be rewarded with the sighting of an otter or two. This evening, we anchor in a sheltered sea loch between Ullapool and the Lochinver area.
Day5: Explore Scotland's West Coast
Today gives us a chance to see some mainland mountain scenery as we head off in the minibus. Our destination will be Stoer Lighthouse, which is another tremendous whale watching lookout, but less visited than many other locations. There will be a chance to have a walk and see some great corners of North-west Scotland for the day and locate some more terrestrial and marine wildlife.
This afternoon we turn south on the penultimate leg of our voyage, heading down the west coast, enjoying the stunning vistas of Scotland's North-west mountain ranges, and the chance to pick up more cetacean species, with the possibility of orca which frequents the Minch, including a very recognisable and well-known individual named John Coe. Scotland has its own west coast orca community which sadly is dwindling, however each year more and more sightings of some unidentified animals with calves have been making an appearance. We have the chance of encountering both communities.
Our final night if conditions allow, will be at the appropriately named for the time of year, Summer Isles, with their seal colony and breeding storm petrels. Alternatively we may head for sheltered Loch Ewe where eagles and hen harriers abound alongside further chances of otter.
Day6: Return to Ullapool
Our final morning and a last chance for some bow-riding common dolphins, we head back to Ullapool where we disembark and say our farewells.
Please note: The itinerary detailed above is a guide only and may change depending on where the whales are being recorded and the sea and weather conditions.
Key info
Duration and price excluding international flights: 6 daysfrom £2,595 pp
Alexa is an ecologist and cetacean researcher with a passion for conservation. She is a keen wildlife photographer and combines research with a love of guiding and sharing knowledge of the marine environment.
Alexa began studying cetaceans in the Hebrides 25 years ago and has since worked as a researcher, guide, campaigner and consultant on marine mammal research projects worldwide. Her research projects have included visual, acoustic and aerial surveys in the North and Baltic Seas, Iceland, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and Belize and a research voyage across the Atlantic.
She lives on the Isle of Mull in the former lighthouse keepers’ cottages, which she spent three years renovating. She returns to the west coast of Iceland each winter, but for the rest of the year, she enjoys Mull’s wildlife and has spent recent years exploring the Inner and Outer Hebrides by boat.
Off the west coast of mainland Scotland lie the Outer Hebrides, a fascinating archipelago of interconnected Atlantic islands. Each of the main islands have a unique feel, however, the rugged beauty is attributed to all. Home to minke whale, Risso's dolphin, hen harrier, golden eagle and corncrake it's a wildlife haven.
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The Hjalmar Bjorge is a comfortable yet sturdy ice class vessel that makes an ideal base from which to explore the rugged and wildlife rich coastline of North-west Scotland. It combines comfortable cabins, excellent food and guides with the small size required to anchor in the remotest corners of Scotland.
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