Back to the Delta

In June 2022, I had the pleasure of leading our inaugural Okavango Delta Safari, a trip that combines fully serviced mobile camping with a comfortable lodge on the Gomoti River. After a 4-year absence, it was difficult to hide the joy I felt in returning to a country I hold in such high regard and reacquainting myself with its incredible wildlife.

Travelling with a small group, some new to Africa, others seasoned safari-goers, we were all buzzing with excitement for the trip to come as we loaded up the game viewers and headed out into the bush. Lilac-breasted rollers, fork-tailed drongos and small flocks of red-billed quelea adorned roadside perches, while African fish eagles soared overhead. Leaving the town of Maun behind, mammals increasingly entered the fray, as we crossed paths with greater kudu, giraffe, zebra, steenbok, and a small breeding herd of elephants – all characters in a familiar story that I longed to be a part of.

As the sun dipped below the horizon and the sky turned a kaleidoscope of orange and pink hues, we paused at a small lagoon to soak in the scene, observing several hippos emerging from their daytime slumber. Continuing, with the aid of a spotlight, we encountered genets, African wild cat and a serval before arriving at a spotted hyena den, a number of adults and pups in attendance. However, the best was yet to come, and a short time later the vehicles came to an abrupt halt … wild dogs were on the road ahead! First just a few individuals in the headlights, but soon growing to 13 animals, regrouping after a hunt before walking straight past our vehicles. It was quite a welcoming committee to Botswana!

Over the course of the next few days, we settled into the daily routine of camp life, exploring the surrounds of first the Khwai Community Area and then Moremi Game Reserve. The two areas offer a wonderful mosaic of habitats shaped by floodwaters first conceived in the highlands of Angola, over a thousand kilometres to the north. Slow-flowing rivers meander through floodplains fringed by tangled tracts of mopani and shady leadwood groves, while more arid areas give rise to vast expanses of camelthorn and acacia-studded grasslands.

This diversity of habitats and the life-giving floodwaters draw birds and mammals from hundreds of kilometres around and we were treated to some exceptional sightings. Lion, cheetah, leopards, and a huge number of elephants all played their part, alongside stunning birdlife of over 130 species including martial eagle, saddle-billed stork and a particularly rapacious lilac-breasted roller! A night-time visit to an elephant carcass with half a dozen bone-crunching spotted hyenas present delivered a complete sensory experience that few of us will forget in a hurry. On another occasion three lionesses stalked and probed a buffalo herd in the failing light, wreaking havoc amongst the herd, but unable to isolate the calves from the wall of adults.

After six nights camping, we travelled to Mma Dinare Lodge for a 3-night stay, indulging in a little more comfort and enjoying yet more wonderful sightings. Lions, including large males and cubs were a feature of most drives, but we also had a coalition of four male cheetahs striding through the grasslands and a leopard with a recently killed impala. The area was heaving with elephants and buffalo, but for many, the highlight of their stay was a visit to a wild dog den where five adults and eight pups were present. In the company of John Mellow, a researcher with Botswana Predator Conservation Trust, we were treated to a fascinating insight into the social dynamics of the pack.

The combination of the camping and lodge experience, coupled with the mix of game reserves and private concessions was a huge success, offering the best of both experiences and I can't wait to return next year!

Find out more about our Okavango Delta Safari holiday. For further information, speak to our friendly team of wildlife experts.