The Curious Whales of San Ignacio

After some insanely close encounters with grizzlies in Canada and elephants in Namibia’s Damaraland, I doubted that any future wildlife holiday could come close to what have become my favourite destinations.  But when my director Chris came back from Baja in 2014, the passion with which he spoke about the grey whales of San Ignacio was infectious and it was easy to see in his eyes when he spoke about them that this was a magical experience. 

So, 11 months later, in March 2015, I found myself arriving at the Cabanas in San Ignacio, located on the windswept Baja peninsula. No sooner had we arrived and checked into our little cabin, we were set to go out on our first whale watching trip. I was pleasantly surprised by the accommodation – although basic, the wooden cabins have a comfortable proper bed, a small sink and a wonderful little balcony looking out on to the lagoon.  Driving to work this morning in the dark and wet, I just have to think of sitting on that balcony, with the sun on my face, watching dolphins merrily jumping past, and think how lucky I am. And how I desperately want to go back!

We didn’t really know what to expect on our first outing into the lagoon.  The journey from the Cabanas to the edge of the lagoon takes around 15 minutes – a little bumpy at times, depending on the weather, but there are always birds to spot to keep your mind off the bumps. As we entered the lagoon, the engine was cut and we started to drift and soak up the atmosphere and, most importantly, peel our eyes for grey whales.  From previous reports, I was imagining that we would be surrounded by these great beasts within minutes of arriving, so my heart sank just a little after 15 minutes of nothing.  But suddenly, all hell broke loose when our guide pointed and shouted – “whale”!  We were told to start splashing the water next to the boat, and hey presto, mother and calf made their way towards us. We all continued splashing as they made their way around and under the boat, mother pushing her calf towards the boat every so often. The little one popped his head up occasionally – inviting us to touch and scratch him.

The pattern continued over the next few days, with boat trips to the lagoon morning and afternoon – and every day, the excitement just got crazier  – it was as if the anticipation was higher and the experience better because we knew what to expect. On our last trip, one of the adult whales swam under a neighbouring boat and actually lifted it up and pushed it on its way – we couldn’t stop laughing, and the group in the other boat were shrieking wtih delight. It’s difficult to explain how meeting those grey whales felt.  When I tell people that I actually kissed a whale, I just don’t think they get it. My husband tells me that he will remember the look on my face forever, and I will certainly remember the tears. 

Back at the Cabanas, we spent ‘non-whale time’ taking leisurely walks along the coastline or reading one of the many wildlife books in the lounge. In the evenings, the staff would prepare the most amazing meals, and then we would sit down with a glass or two of wine and listen to guest lectures or chat with fellow guests. Aside from the wildlife presentations, we were lucky enough to meet a couple from the charity ‘Magicians without Borders’ who travel around the world showing and teaching magic to children in poor and/or war torn areas. They gave us an impromptu show on our last evening at the camp and we have kept in contact with Tom and Janet since. Just the icing on the cake of a wonderful experience at the Cabanas.

So am I envious of our group heading off to San Ignacio in April? Yes. Would I go back?  Yes, yes, yes, without a doubt. 

Join us in Baja for a genuine whale watching experience of a lifetime.