The Heart of Luangwa & Bangweulu

As you walk off the plane in Lusaka, I highly recommend keeping an eye out for the charming little swifts that nest on the terminal building. If you are particularly lucky, you may even see a raptor or two overhead. Breathing in the warm African air is hard to describe, but I cannot wait to experience it once more. It is even better when arriving in Mfuwe, situated in the heart of the Luangwa Valley. It is like arriving home, for me at least – with carmine and white-fronted bee-eaters, lilac-breasted rollers and possibly a fly-past from a magnificent bateleur eagle – all before you have even collected your bags.

A scenic drive in an open vehicle, takes us through busy villages and across the bridge which spans the Luangwa River. The bridge marks the entrance to the national park and is the first wildlife stop. With stunning views up and down the river, it provides the perfect opportunity to see large numbers of hippos and enormous crocodiles, as well as egrets, herons, storks and possibly a fish eagle (if you do not hear them first). Broadly following the course of the Luangwa River, we head south to a remote, wild and rarely visited part of the park where our ‘camp’ awaits. The wildlife is simply sublime. It is possible to see impala, zebra, bushbuck, buffalo and puku (an antelope endemic to this part of Africa) before even arriving in camp. Situated in the shade of trees along the Manzi River, a beautiful collection of traditional thatched rondavels, each with a large verandah, will be home for the next few nights. It is the perfect place to sit back and watch families of elephants drinking peacefully, as if nothing has changed for millennia. Safaris in this part of the park are incredibly rewarding, with lions among the many other highlights.

From here, a low-level flight across the Luangwa Valley takes you to the Nsefu sector. On the eastern side of the river sits Tafika, one of the oldest and most established lodges in the valley. It is simply wonderful, blending in with its natural surroundings and providing everything you could wish for, including a river view like no other in Africa. On my first morning at Tafika a year or so ago, we watched a pack of wild dogs on the other side of the river whilst we enjoyed our pre game-drive cuppa – not a bad start!

Wild dog and lion are amongst the major predators in the park, but for many the real prize is leopard. The opportunities to see these usually elusive big cats are exceptional in South Luangwa, either during the day or on exciting night-time excursions. And for me, visiting the Valley is not just about 4-wheel drive safaris, it is being out on foot and at eye-level with the wildlife. Learning about the tracks and trails, grasses, trees and birds, and letting the sights, sounds and smells of the wilderness fill your senses.

Most will visit Zambia during the dry season (June to October), but the country is a world-class wildlife and birding destination throughout the year. A visit to the Bangweulu Swamps is a must for a green season safari. Bangweulu is untouched, rarely visited and bursting with life. Tens of thousands of endemic black lechwe (a magnificent water-loving antelope), harriers, ducks, geese and the piece-de-resistance … the utterly bizarre shoebill. A large and unusual-looking bird, the shoebill makes its home amongst the papyrus swamps of Bangweulu. Combine Bangweulu and South Luangwa and you have the perfect green season safari.

Contact us to speak to our expert team or find out more about our trip to Bangweulu Wetlands and South Luangwa National Park.