Walking with Pumas

Everyone loves the pleasing biscuit-crumb crunch of fresh snow underfoot. But this was different. I wasn't paying attention to the sound of my own feet. Instead, every time I stopped walking, and all around fell quiet (other than the rhythmical thump of my heart), all I could hear was the muffled crunch of feline footfall as a puma walked by. It might seem too far-fetched to be believable – a wild puma walking so close that you could hear its paws making contact with the ground – and had I not experienced it myself, I wouldn't believe it either.

The puma in question was Blinka, a beautiful reddish-chestnut adult female, who along with her two 9-month-old cubs was walking down a snow-covered hillside near Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia.

Earlier, from around first light, we had spent several hours watching the family, feeding on a guanaco kill. This had been magical: the cats were completely at ease as we stood 30 metres away to observe and take photos. At times they stopped feeding and rested. Then the cubs indulged in brief bouts of play, which included chasing birds that had the temerity to attempt to scavenge away from the carcass.

By mid-morning, they were full-bellied and satiated, and left the remains of the carcass to the caracaras. With Blinka at the front, the family set off, and we followed. Initially, it was tough to keep up – the pumas seemed to glide with ease over the white landscape, whereas every step of mine plunged deep into the snow. It was easier once they started heading down the slope towards the lake shore, and soon we were all walking at the same pace – a group of four humans and no more than 10 metres to our right, a family of three pumas – side by side, at times almost in unison.

Every so often, the pumas would stop. Blinka then surveyed the terrain ahead, perhaps plotting the route she intended to take, while the cubs would either play and tumble or just sit quietly next to their mum taking in their surroundings. Then, just as my heart rate had returned to something approaching normal, they'd be off again. I couldn't say how long this lasted, it was so immersive and all-consuming, but by the time we reached the lake, we'd probably covered over three kilometres. Lung bursting and exhilarating in equal measure - 'walking with pumas' was without question, one of the most thrilling wildlife encounters I'd ever experienced.

Puma viewing is now possible at any time of year around Torres del Paine, but winter is my preferred time. Yes, it can be very cold, but the weather is often more settled, and the sun stays low throughout the day, so the light quality remains excellent.

Snow is far from certain, and when it does fall, it rarely remains on the ground for long, so getting pumas in the snow requires a good slice of luck. Nonetheless, even without snow, the winter photographic opportunities are often sublime.

Find out more about our tour where you can photograph pumas, view all our puma watching holidays, or contact a member of our team to book.