This eco-resort lies 500 kilometres south of Georgetown, where the northern savannah, swamp and forest meet at the Rupununi River and the plain stretches towards the Pakaraima Mountains and Brazil.
The lodge, which is renowned for its legendary hospitality in addition to the tranquil atmosphere and abundant wildlife, is surrounded by forest with the open range out in front. Its five clay-brick and palm-thatched cabanas, each of which has an en suite bathroom and verandah, give it the flavour of an Amerindian village. Facilities are basic yet comfortable – with solar-powered electric lighting until bedtime, cold water showers and flushing toilets. Laundry is done free of charge.
The former cattle ranch is owned by the McTurk family, and meals are taken around the large dining table in the open living room of the ranch house, accompanied by stories about the ranch and the family’s history. The late Diane McTurk was well-known for rehabilitating orphaned giant otters, and her work has featured in National Geographic magazine and several television programmes. Her father, Tiny McTurk, settled here in 1927, and played host to both Gerald Durrell and David Attenborough.
Activities operate on an informal basis depending on the interests and preferences of guests, opportunity and season (wet or dry), but may include: exploring the Rupununi River in search of otters, black caiman and arapaima; a fishing trip to Simoni Pond; spotting giant anteaters on the savannah; birdwatching at nearby ponds; a trip to see Victoria amazonica – the world’s largest water lily and Guyana’s national flower – as it opens after dusk.
Another highlight is an evening visit to Crane Pond to see large numbers of ibis, anhinga, heron and egret roosting. Water-based activities increase as the land floods during the wet season – usually between mid-May and mid-September – and in all but the driest times, Karanambu is reached by a relaxing two-hour boat ride on the Rupununi River, an excellent way to see wildlife.
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