Staying on a purpose-built houseboat and visiting two simple, but comfortable, lodges in Brazil’s North Pantanal, this expert led small group trip offers the chance to see a fabulous variety of mammals and birds.
The Brazilian Pantanal offers some of the finest bird and mammal-watching in South America. With the onset of the dry season, this enormous wetland gradually begins to dry out, leaving its inhabitants with ever-diminishing pools around which to congregate and feed. Families of capybara, the world’s largest rodent, often end up vying for position alongside huge numbers of yacaré caiman, storks, herons and ibises … and all under the watchful gaze of numerous predators, both avian and mammalian.
This small group tour, seeks to provide an excellent introduction to visiting the North Pantanal, using a remote purpose-built houseboat for dedicated boat-based excursions in search of jaguars and giant river otters. Located in the heart of what's widely described as the ‘Jaguar Zone’, our houseboat features just seven comfortable rooms, offering the perfect base in a quieter area, upstream from Porto Jofre. Unique to our Naturezas houseboat is a tugboat that gives our accommodation the freedom to frequently move its location, ensuring we can balance our location and boat safaris between excellent areas for sightings whilst avoiding any busy stretches of river.
This flexibility provides immediate access to some of the most productive areas for jaguars and giant river otters, while allowing guests the opportunity to view and photograph these species, long before any other boats arrive. We also stay at lodges located along the Transpantaneira, both offering fantastic and diverse wildlife watching opportunities on foot, by safari vehicle and at night for a wide range of species from ocelot and tapir to black howler monkey and hyacinth macaw.
Read Helen's blog from a previous trip.
Typical Itinerary
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Day 1:
Depart UK
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Day 2:
Arrive Cuiabá & transfer to Pouso Alegre
Following an early morning arrival in São Paulo, we board a domestic flight to Cuiabá, the capital of Mato Grosso State and the gateway to the Pantanal, the world’s largest contiguous wetland.
After an early lunch in Cuiabá, we commence our journey to Pouso Alegre. Shortly after passing the small town of Poconé, we join the infamous Transpantaneira, a raised-dirt and gravel road that extends south for approximately 150 kilometres through the North Pantanal. The Transpantaneira is excellent for wildlife-watching and as we drive slowly south we are likely to begin encountering some of the region's famed wildlife inhabitants. Families of capybaras, the world’s largest rodent, can often be seen grazing in the margins of the remaining pools, alongside huge numbers of yacare caiman, whilst egrets, ibises and storks wade through the shallow pools, and kingfishers perch on nearby branches.
Accommodation: Pouso Alegre, 2-nights
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Day 3:
Wildlife activities from Pouso Alegre
Over the course of our stay at Pouso Alegre, we will explore the surrounding habitats of the lodge, on foot and by safari truck, likely encountering a myriad of mammal and bird species. Azara’s agouti can often be found foraging in the lodge grounds, whilst the forests at the rear of the lodge provide refuge to the diminutive black-tailed marmoset. At the height of the dry season, nearby water hollows have been known to attract a variety of thirsty visitors including Brazilian tapir and giant anteater. The open grasslands around the lodge are inhabited by ostrich-like greater rhea and red-legged sereima, whilst the lodges fruiting trees often attract beautiful chestnut-eared aracari.
Equipped with a powerful spotlight, night drives along Pouso Alegre’s entrance track provide yet further opportunities to see the area's mammals, with many species more active in these cooler hours, as well as variety of nocturnal birds such as common paraque, nacunda nighthawk and scissor-tailed nightjar.
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Day 4:
Pouso Alegre to Naturezas Houseboat
This morning we leave Pouso Alegre and continue our journey south to the locality known as 'Porto Jofre' which is located at the end of the Transpantaneira. Travelling in our open sided safari vehicle, the drive takes around four hours, through a variety of habitats where we can encounter a wealth of wildlife. Roadside hawks, savannah hawks, black-collared hawks and snail kites will be a common sight on our travels and there is always the possibility of a chance encounter with a variety of mammals.
Arriving in Porto Jofre, we will enjoy a quick lunch before taking to the water and travelling up the Cuiaba River to our accommodation. Located in the heart of what is widely known as the ‘Jaguar Zone', the journey will see us travelling through some of the most productive waters in the world for jaguar and giant river otter viewing and there is an excellent chance of encountering, either or both species on route.
Accommodation on the houseboat is in seven cabins, five spacious 15 square metre rooms and two smaller nine-metre rooms, all featuring two twin beds or a queen-sized double bed, in addition to a separate bunk bed. Each room is equipped with a TV, minibar, hairdryer, safe box, and large, screened windows at opposite ends to facilitate natural airflow. The spacious vessel has been designed to offer plenty of space for guests to relax or enjoy socialising, and features an expansive dining and lounge room, ideal for evening lectures and a top deck, perfect for enjoying a sundowner drink from.
Accommodation: Naturezas House, 4-nights
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Days 5-7
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Morning & afternoon boat safaris from Naturezas Houseboat
Over the next three days, we will follow a programme of morning and afternoon boat safaris, typically spending around eight hours on the river each day and returning to the houseboat in the middle of the day for lunch and some downtime. Cruising slowly along the river we will scan the sandy banks and dense riparian forest in search of the Pantanal’s top predator. Drawn by the high density of caiman and capybara in the area, jaguars can frequently be found stalking the rivers in search of prey or resting in the shade of an overhanging tree.
With the flexibility around our base we can benefit from direct access to areas we know are both highly rewarding for sightings, but also quieter channels where we can enjoy more intimacy with our sightings, away from the busyness of Porto Jofre.
Whilst exploring the vast network of rivers and channels, we will doubtless meet with a varied selection of mammals and birds. In addition to the capybara and caiman, we have an excellent chance of finding a family of giant river otters, with previous trips also encountering ocelot, Brazilian tapir and even tayra patrolling the river banks. Birds are likely to include black skimmers, both large-billed and yellow-billed terns, maguari stork, blue-crowned parakeet and a host of different raptors and passerines.
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Day 8:
Naturezas Houseboat to SouthWild Pantanal Lodge
After breakfast, we return by boat back to Porto Jofre, looking for a final jaguar sighting on our way. Here we transfer back to our safari truck and retrace our steps back up the Transpantaneira to KM 66, where our third and final lodge is located, the intimate SouthWild Pantanal Lodge (previously known as Santa Tereza). Here, we settle into our air-conditioned rooms and have a couple of hours rest, before venturing out in the late afternoon for a boat trip on the wildlife-rich Pixaim River or for a wildlife walk on one of the extensive forest trails.
Accommodation: SouthWild Pantanal Lodge or Hotel Pantanal Mato Grosso, 3-nights
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Days 9-10
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Wildlife activities from SouthWild Pantanal Lodge
We have two full days to explore the lodge grounds and surrounding area, through a mix of walks, drives and boat safaris. The river is excellent for a range of bird species including black-crowned night heron, boat-billed heron and with luck, the jewel of the Pantanal, the stunning agami heron. Green iguanas and black howler monkeys are often spotted in the trees overhanging the river and on a nearby trail through the gallery forest, highlights may include a troop of capuchin monkeys or a flypast from a pair of beautiful hyacinth macaws.
Unusual amongst the land-based lodges in the North Pantanal, over the years SouthWild Pantanal Lodge has enjoyed some fantastic sightings of jaguars in the lodge grounds and along the Pixaim River. Although limited to only a few sightings a year, with only a few boats operating on this stretch of the river, if we are lucky enough to see a jaguar in this area, it is likely to be a very exclusive sighting.
During our stay we will also have the opportunity to undertake further night drives, venturing out with a spotlight along the Transpantaneira where tapirs, crab-eating foxes and racoons and brocket deer are often found. A further highlight will be visits to the ocelot hide, which boasts an incredibly high success rate for observing this elegant cat in a forest clearing after dark.
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Day 11:
Transfer to Cuiabá & depart
This morning we travel the remaining distance up the Transpantaneira to Pocone and on to Cuiabá where we board a flight to São Paulo, connecting with our onward flight to the UK.
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Day 12:
Arrive UK
Please note: Should you wish to extend your time in Brazil, we have several exciting options available to the Amazon, Southern Pantanal or Iguazu Falls. Please enquire for details.