Maned Wolf, Jaguar & Other Wildlife Highlights in Brazil

Oh my gosh. The breath stuck in our throats as we watched one of the most glorious creatures we’d ever seen run down the road away from us. Her elegant yet gangly legs gathered speed, despite her unusual gait, huge ears pointing forward, unmoving, as her gorgeous deep chestnut coat undulated, billowing in the wind. We took in her black mane and lengthy socks contrasting beautifully with her white chin and bushy tail as we pinched ourselves that we were here and experiencing this incredible animal first hand. 

Image by Mary-Ann Lord

A little earlier we'd been fortunate enough to spend half an hour in her company at very close quarters, our visit happening to coincide with vital conservation work being conducted by the on-site NGO, Oncafari. Watching their vet assess the anaesthetised maned wolf for the suitability of fitting a research collar was indeed a privilege. We observed the care with which he appraised her overall health as measurements, bloods, vitals and identifying features were recorded. 

Little is known about maned wolves, they're shy and elusive creatures, so by collaring a small number of individuals (many more reside here), the team are better able to understand them, their relationships, behaviour and movements, in order to advise on future initiatives to protect them and their savannah habitat. 

The private reserve of Trijuncao, arguably the best place in the world to try and view them, is a 5-hour drive from Brasilia and forms an essential wildlife corridor between surrounding agricultural land and neighbouring Grande Sentao National Park, a sanctuary not only to these staggeringly alluring creatures but to puma, jaguar, giant ant-eater and tapir too. 

This was the first stop on our incredible journey around Brazil, our first biome, and our first target species to be marked off the wish list. Maned wolf? Tick. Mission accomplished!

Next up came the Amazon. Ah, the novelty of river travel as you slow down and sit back with the natural air-conditioning on, enjoying the pleasure of accompanying swooping swallows and diving kingfishers as puffbirds and jacamars watch from their lofty perches. Capybaras scent mark the banks as we search for tapir and otter with a constant cornucopia of butterflies contrasting against the lush walls of verdant, emerald rainforest whose trails provide a cooling, calm sanctuary from the heat outside. 

Serenaded by the quintessential calls of white-throated toucan and screaming piha, we walk over the residual confetti of leaf-cutter ants and past turrets of cicada towers. Leaf litter flutters and tumbles down from above as we crane our necks to see whether it's the movement of primates, birds or simply the wind in the canopy causing it to fall. By night, our head torches pick up the eyes of thousands of spiders as senses heightened, we absorb the still, inky blackness. And then there are the towers. Rising steadily, 50 metres up we go, until we're level with, and then surpassing rainbows of colour provided by parakeet, macaw, parrotlet and aracari fly bys. From the top we are dazzled by blue dacnis, spangled cotinga and tanagers galore, not to mention pristine rainforest as far as the eye can see.  

The beauty of the Amazon is the ability to absorb the whole experience, from appreciating its flora and fauna to enjoying unexpected swims and sundowners on the river, when the water is burnished gold as a tsunami of egrets fly home to roost for the night. And sometimes, just sometimes, we hit the jackpot. We'd no sooner commenced our final trail, when a radio call changed our plans completely. Rushing to the scene, we looked up and gawped. A harpy eagle sat in all its glory, framed against the cerulean sky. We grinned, and for a whole hour, marvelled at his greatness. Target species number two? Oh yes!  

Was it a case of saving the best for last? We certainly hoped so as we excitedly made our way towards our final stop, Brazil’s magnificent Pantanal wetland. We had big cats on our minds, and we weren’t disappointed. Our first jaguar was a beast. There's simply no other way to describe him. Located on a kill, he slept his feast off lying on his back, legs akimbo. He then moved his massive bulk, his belly dragging along the ground, as we took in the girth of his neck and his sheer magnificence. Everything was perfect. Later that same afternoon, we closely followed a hunting female. Sitting directly behind her as she approached her prey, we watched her spring into action and, in the exact same instance, decide this wasn't the chase for her. 

An ocelot had us beaming as did lodge based hyacinth macaw, crab eating fox and baby capybaras (babybaras!) but walking with a giant ant-eater was our final hoorah. We had laughed our way around the country (literally!) but were moved to silence with its proximity and grace. 

So did the Best of Brazil 2024 deliver? Were all target species seen? Yes. With bells on. What a country, what an itinerary, what a group!  

Find out more about our upcoming Best of Brazil departures or contact our friendly team to book.